Exploring Lake Geneva: France & Switzerland

It was February and we were still getting a fair amount of rain and snow on the surrounding hills. We decided to take a little break somewhere different for a few days and off we went to Évian-les-Bains. Évian, of bottled water fame! Évian-les-Bains in Haute-Savoie is a short trip from our home in the department of Ardèche Verte (northern Ardèche) but a world away in terms of architecture and the natural environment. 

Did you know that Lake Geneva is actually called Lac Léman in French? (The Romans used to call it Lacus Lemanus.) People often use “Lake Geneva” in English because the city of Geneva sits on the western end, but the lake actually stretches out across both Switzerland and France.

Évian sits on the shore of Lake Geneva, with wide, open views stretching across the water to the Alps beyond. The town feels polished, with its Belle Époque buildings and elegant promenades. I can imagine during the summer it must have an almost seaside resort atmosphere. 

We settled into our modern apartment in a little chateau across from Lake Geneva. The owner had thoughtfully left a basket of six bottles of Évian water that she had filled straight from the source.

Does the water from the source taste the same as the bottled water? Whereas the water in the bottles has a silky, clean taste, the water from the source has more of a mineral flavor, which is also delicious, but slightly different if you’re expecting the exact same finish.

Anyone can bring bottles to a choice of two sources in Évian. You can show up with a few empty bottles and fill them for free. The most famous is the Source Cachat, right in the middle of town, where the same pure mineral water that’s sold around the world just pours out of the fountain. There’s another spring nearby too, the Source des Cordeliers, a little quieter but just as good. Locals and visitors line up with everything from fancy glass bottles to old plastic jugs, and while it’s just a normal part of life for its residents, it’s a special event for visitors like me.

We enjoyed strolling down the street and gazing at the architecture, and stopping for a chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and crepes at a tiny but popular little to-go place in town. We stood in the crisp, cold air at one of the tall tables outside and kept warm with our tasty treats, planning our next adventure.

The beautiful “la buvette Cachat” was unfortunately closed for construction but I still enjoyed the exterior. It is owned by the Évian Water Company, founded by the Cachat family in the 18th century, following the discovery of the healing qualities of Evian water by the Marquis Jean-Charles de Laizer (1734-1806) who claimed that drinking it had cured him of a gallbladder disease.

Lac Léman is a huge lake surrounded by mountains and little lakeside villages, and we settled on visiting charming Yvoire on the French side first.

We arrived in Yvoire and perhaps because of the winter season, we found parking overlooking the lake. A short walk took us to the arched stone wall that marked its entrance, leading us to the cobbled stone streets and the variety of open shops and cafes.

As we wandered further, we couldn’t miss the Château de Yvoire, overlooking the lake. This beautiful chateau, built back in the 14th century, looks like something out of a fairytale. Visitors aren’t allowed as it’s privately owned now, and I can’t help but wonder who they are and how it must be to live there.

The steeple on l‘église Saint Pancrace d’Yvoire is unique and eye catching, with its stainless steel bell tower. The interior was completely renovated in 2012 and worth a peek inside.

Of course, we found an alpine style café and stopped there for the usual French snack of crepes (or gaufres/waffles, if you so choose), and a coffee or hot chocolate. “Cozy” is done very well in France! 

Our next plan of action the following day was to drive to Switzerland and we decided to head to Vevey, a charming lakeside town, less than an hour’s drive from Évian.

The 19th architecture in Vevey is clean and colorful and it’s fun to just explore the various shops, chocolate included, of course.

After wandering the streets of Vevey, we decided to grab lunch in the town’s square. While we’d originally thought about trying some traditional Swiss fare, we ended up being attracted to a Lebanese restaurant called Mezzé & Co right in the heart of the square. They get excellent reviews for good reason!

Though it wasn’t exactly what we’d expected in terms of local cuisine, it turned out to be one of the most memorably delicious meals I’ve had in a long time. Perfect for lovers of garlic, the flavors were fresh, with a variety of things to try on one plate. 

With full bellies, we headed toward the promenade to take in the view of the lake and the Alps. We stopped to sit on the steps and watch the swans float past the sculptures of nymphs riding seahorses, magically set in the sparkling blue water of Lac Léman. 

Not only is Vevey known for its beautiful lakeside promenade with postcard views of the Alps, but it’s also where Charlie Chaplin spent his final years. He retired there in 1952, and his legacy is still alive in the town, from a statue of him by the lake to a museum “Chaplin’s World” set in his estate in Corsier-sur-Vevey, dedicated to his life and work. 

The Alimentarium, Vevey’s food and nutrition museum, is worth a visit—especially if you’re curious about what we eat and why. Housed in Nestlé’s original headquarters from 1921, the museum’s main exhibition explores how food is produced, its role in culture, and how it affects the body. It’s interactive and family-friendly, and right outside, you’ll spot the famous giant fork sculpture rising from Lake Geneva—officially recognized in the Guinness Book of Records. It was created by Swiss artist Jean-Pierre Zaugg in 1995 to commemorate the Alimentarium’s 10th anniversary.

It was getting late and we had a drive ahead of us, so relaxed and satisfied, we headed back to Évian, our lovely temporary home across the lake.