Three Squares to the Musée des Beaux Arts

The forecast warned of a relentless heatwave descending on Lyon this week. Being heat-sensitive, it was important to get out the day before the city would feel too stifling to wander freely! So, early in the day, I set out with a simple mission to visit the Musée des Beaux Arts, a place I’d longed to explore and finally had the chance. It’s the second largest fine arts museum in France after the Louvre, and uniquely Lyonnais.

I wanted to make use of my new “Carte Culture”, purchasd for 38€ at the library in my Lyon neighborhood. It is an annual cultural membership card offered by the City of Lyon to its residents, designed to make the arts and culture more accessible and affordable. It includes free access to six municipal museums (including the Musée des Beaux Arts), all municipal libraries, plus discounted rates to partner museums, cinemas, theatres, concerts & festivals.

My little adventure began at Place Bellecour, where I walked up the steps of the metro to the familiar square. Bellecour is vast and open, various cafés, boutiques, and hotels surround the square. Right in the center of Place Bellecour stands the famous equestrian statue of Louis XIV.

A 5-year temporary installation, “Les Ombrières” (the Sunshades), also known as “Tissage urbain” (Urban Weaving) now adorns the square. It’s a very controversial piece. It cost several million, and while supporters of Les Ombrières feel that it brings interest and color to Place Bellecour, critics see it as awkward looking, not fitting the environment, and far too expensive. I have to admit, while I don’t hate it, I’m more in the latter category. I’m all for blending the old and the new, and I like the nod to Lyon’s history in the silk industry, but this installation does feel less than graceful. For those who love it, well, they can enjoy it for the next five years. Maybe I’ll grow to love it?

Walking from Bellecour to Place des Jacobins, I am always struck by the contrast. Place des Jacobins feels smaller and more intimate, in the midst of elegant buildings, its fountain standing in the center.

The fountain was originally built in 1885 by the architect Gaspard André, who designed several notable fountains and monuments in Lyon. It replaced earlier versions of fountains on the site dating back to the 18th century. The fountain is an ornate, multi-tiered structure made of white marble and bronze, showcasing craftsmanship typical of the late 19th century. Around the fountain are four statues representing famous Lyonnais artists throughout the centuries: Jean-Hippolyte Flandrin (painter), Philippe de Lassalle (ornamentalist and master of silk design), Gérard Audran (engraver), Thomas Blanchet (painter and sculptor).

I couldn’t resist wandering on the side street of Rue Mercière literally meaning “Street of the Merchants”. It’s one of the oldest streets in Lyon, already occupied in the Gallo-Roman era. The 16th century was a time of great success for printers in Lyon. The city had 181 printing workshops, making it the third largest publishing center in Europe, after Venice and Paris. A large number were grouped in Rue Mercière and its surrounding streets. After a period of decline, today the street is full of bistros and traditional Lyonnais bouchons (restaurants).

Since the 1970s, Lyon has become known for its trompe l’œil murals, with over 200 adorning walls throughout the city. I took a photo of this mural below – there is a also cheetah but it’s been covered by the foliage of the tree!

I thought I would take a peek inside l’Eglise Saint Nizier⁩. Nestled between Place des Terreaux and Place des Jacobins, this church is part of Lyon’s UNESCO World Heritage, its layered history and architecture earned it this designation in 1998. In 1975, Saint Nizier became the site of a notable protest: over a hundred Lyon prostitutes occupied it for eight days to denounce social and police harassment – an event that resonated across France! Today, it is cool and peaceful with an active parish.

Finally, I reached the Place des Terreaux, a bustling square steeped in history. Dominated by the grand 17th-century Hôtel de Ville and flanked by the renowned Musée des Beaux-Arts, this square attracts both locals and visitors alike.

The centerpiece of the Place des Terreaux is the Bartholdi Fountain, created by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi – the very same artist who designed the Statue of Liberty.

The Musée des Beaux Arts itself is housed in a beautiful 17th-century Benedictine convent. Passing through the leafy courtyard to enter the main museum is a calming way to catch a first glimpse of what is in store.

Scuptures in the garden create a small open-air museum. This refuge of peace is open to the public for all to enjoy for free. People are welcome to rest on benches to read or to chat, or to just soak in the ambience.

Featured below: Scuptures by Auguste Rodin (left) and Antoine Bordelle, a student of Rodin (right).

Proudly showing my new “Carte Culture” at the entrance, I was able to skip the line and head straight to the masterpieces. I covered the ground floor and the first floor, which mainly displays sculpture, the decorative arts, coins and medals, and Egyptian antiquities. I was amazed to see an entire Raoul Dufy painting on the wall overlooking the café! However, because the weather was so pleasant, I took my quiche and sat out on the terrace which overlooks the courtyard. I admit to to taking so much time on this floor that I completely missed the paintings on the second floor – surely, something to look forward to on my next visit.

Stepping back into the buzz of Place des Terreaux, I favored an extra walk over taking the closest metro, and headed back to the metro at Place Bellecour on foot.

By the time I reached the metro at Bellecour, I thought, “Well, that was a good little adventure…now to hibernate from the heat for at least the next week!”