A Day in Chambéry

On a hot day in summer, I set out with Olivier to Chambéry, a charming town in the Savoie. Promising to be at least a couple of degrees cooler than Lyon or Ardèche, we looked forward to a little bit of relief (it was still very hot).

By the time we got there, it was already lunchtime, so we circled around the streets in search of somewhere with a decent menu and not too many smokers. We finally returned to the first place we had seen, as the menu was fine and the air was fresh. I can’t believe that I chose a relatively heavy dish on such a hot day, but it was a traditional Savoie restaurant, so why not sample the local fare? I chose the diots in wine sauce on soft polenta with Tomme de Savoie cheese melted in. Don’t worry – I also had to look up “diots” which turned out to be traditional Savoie sausage. As hot as the weather was, I have to admit that I really enjoyed my meal!

When I’m visiting somewhere for a day, I usually like to sample the food and stroll around the streets, gazing at the architecture, and hopefully, uncover some hidden surprises.

Between the years of 1295 and 1860, Chambéry belonged to the States of Savoy and maintained close ties with Piedmont and Italy. With its grand avenue “rue de Boigne” and its arcades, it gives the city a bit of an Italian atmosphere.

One thing that I found charming about Chambéry are the bronze elephant medallions on the streets. The elephant trail guides you through the city, wandering through narrow roads, public squares, and medieval alleyways. You can pick up the map from the tourist office (5 Bis Pl. du Palais de Justice, 73000 Chambéry).

The icon of the elephant on the bronze medallions aren’t a random choice. The elephant is a connection to Benoît de Boigne (1751–1830), a local historical military figure who traveled to India and rose to become a highly successful general for the Maratha Empire. He commanded massive armies, won legendary battles, and accumulated an enormous fortune.

When General de Boigne returned to his native Chambéry late in life, he used his massive wealth to completely reshape the city. He financed new streets (like the Rue de Boigne), the municipal theater, schools, a hospital, and programs for the poor; in fact, he donated a third of his entire fortune back to the town. The Fontaine des Éléphants (Fountain of the Elephants) was erected in 1838 to honor him shortly after his death, built by the city out of immense gratitude to their ultimate benefactor. The four bronze elephants represent the war elephants of India and the grand campaigns he led.

Wandering the streets, I did come upon a little surprise – it was the murals on the side of the theater that really caught my eye.

Opinel knives are a traditional Savoyard product. They were originally created by Joseph Opinel in 1890, in the tiny village of Albiez-le-Vieux, Savoie. While the classic beechwood handle knives were created for farmers, shepherds, and woodcutters, the handles are now available in a variety of woods, and the shop showcases everything from pocketknives to specialized culinary tools.

Incredibly hot, and always interested to check out the cooling interior of any church, chapel, or cathedral, we stepped inside the ⁨Cathédrale Saint François de Sales⁩ and it certainly was worth the visit. I didn’t realize at first that the lace-like ceilings weren’t carved – they are painted, or “trompe l’oeil”. I’ve visited the interiors of many churches and cathedrals and they all have their own particular unique quality. This will be one that will always remain in my mind.

The side of the cathedral is a shaded refuge and feels like its own little world. I loved the carved wooden balconies on the houses.

The Château des ducs de Savoie is an iconic monument that stands out like a fairy-tale castle amongst the colorful architecture and flags blowing in the breeze. We made our way up the steps to take a look at the castle museum. It’s quite a small but informative museum with no cost to enter.

This clock was actually once a part of the Saint-Léger church built directly over a river in 1240, but in 1760 it was demolished due to stability issues. The clock was a beloved part of the church, so it was saved and relocated onto the facade of a building in the city center of Chambéry.

If you visit Chambéry, I think you’ll enjoy the winding streets and beautiful architecture as much as I did.